Tsev > Xov xwm > Ntsiab lus
Cov Khoom Tseem Ceeb Ntawm Sab Nraud Fabric
May 05, 2022

Thawj ntu:


Function yog dab tsi? Nws txhais tau hais tias lub luag hauj lwm muaj txiaj ntsig tau ua los ntawm tej yam lossis txoj hauv kev. Cov khaub ncaws ua haujlwm yog ua kom cov khaub ncaws ua haujlwm zoo tshaj plaws. Ib yam li ntawd, cov khaub ncaws ua haujlwm sab nraum zoov yog kim vim nws txoj kev ua haujlwm nyuaj. Cov npe nrov xws li Columbia (Colombia) ), THENORTHFACE (sab qaum teb ntawm TNF) Cov khaub ncaws sab nraum zoov muaj nqis ntau txhiab lossis ntau txhiab daus las, vim li cas thiaj li kim? Tom qab ntau xyoo ntawm kev tsub zuj zuj, kev txhais lus thiab kev ua kom zoo, nws cov kab lis kev cai hom tau tsim tus nqi ntawm cov khoom lag luam; Raws li ib tug kws tshaj lij sab nraum zoov hom ntaub npuag tus kws tshaj lij rau plaub lub xyoos dhau los, kuv tau los tshuaj xyuas qhov zoo thiab kev ua haujlwm ntawm cov khaub ncaws ua kis las sab nraum zoov (tsis suav nrog kev ua haujlwm tsoos tsho).


Muaj ob hom ntaub rau sab nraum zoov, ib qho yog cov khaub ncaws ua los ntawm cov ntaub ncaws pob sab nraum zoov. Cov ntaub no tsuas yog siv rau cov ris tsho hauv roob, caij ski suits, thiab cov tsho ntaus rog. Cov style yog ntxhib, txhais tes xav tias tawv, thiab cov khoom yuav tsum tau ua haujlwm siab heev. Nws yog qhov tsim nyog rau hom kev ua si kis las Nws muaj kev tiv thaiv zoo rau tib neeg (cov tuam txhab loj txawv teb chaws muaj cov kev cai nruj heev rau qhov no, thiab yuav tsum tau kuaj los ntawm cov chaw soj ntsuam thoob ntiaj teb xws li ITSSGS, thiab cov khoom lag luam hauv tsev tsis muaj cov ncauj lus kom ntxaws).


Lwm qhov yog cov khaub ncaws ua los ntawm cov ntaub so ntswg sab nraum zoov, uas txhais tau hais tias yuav tawm hauv tsev mus ua haujlwm sab nraum zoov. Hom ntaub no feem ntau yog xws li thiab fashionable, xyuam xim rau kev ua haujlwm zoo, mos tes xis thiab xis hnav.


Kev txiav txim siab zoo thiab kev ua haujlwm ntawm cov khaub ncaws sab nraum zoov, nws lub ntsiab lus yog qhov tseem ceeb hauv kev ua haujlwm ntawm textile fabrics, cov haujlwm muaj xws li cov kev ntsuam xyuas hauv qab no: shrinkage, seam slip, elongation zog, tsim kua muag, PH nqi, dej tsis kam, dej tsis kam. , Kev ntsuas lub cev xws li ya raws permeability, nag, lub teeb, dej stains, hws stains, kev sib txhuam, tshuab ntxhua khaub ncaws, thiab lwm yam.


Kev siv thev naus laus zis ntawm cov ntaub sab nraum zoov no yog qhov nyuaj tshaj li cov ntaub ntawv ib txwm siv, suav nrog ntau qhov kev sib txuas, thiab muaj ntau yam haujlwm xws li dej tsis qab, cua tsis muaj zog, ya raws permeability, dej siab tsis kam, sov so, tiv thaiv hws, thiab tiv thaiv UV. Yog li ntawd, nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb heev los tswj qhov zoo ntawm cov txheej txheem ntawm textile fabrics. Qhov tseem ceeb.


1. Sab nraum zoov kev ua kis las fabrics: feem ntau yog ua los ntawm nylon, polyester thiab lwm yam tshuaj fiber ntau ntaub tom qab ua tiav: waterproof, calendering, qhuav thiab ntub txheej, zaj duab xis lamination thiab lwm yam txheej txheem, nrog waterproof, ya raws permeability, breathability, dej tsis kam, UV tsis kam, thiab lwm yam. Ntau yam khoom siv ntaub. Tom qab ntawd cov haujlwm no yuav tsum xub tuav los ntawm qhov chaw, uas yog lub tsev textile printing thiab dyeing Hoobkas.


1. Textile


Cov xov paj zoo thiab lub zog: Qhov zoo ntawm cov xov paj txiav txim siab qhov zoo ntawm cov ntaub, thiab lub zog txiav txim siab qhov zoo ntawm cov ntaub tearing. (Tear: Lub zog zoo dua los ntawm kev sim, qhov zoo dua qhov hnav tsis kam thiab hnav tsis kam, thiab kev tiv thaiv zoo dua ntawm tib neeg lub cev hauv thaj chaw ib puag ncig).


2. Qhov zoo ntawm lub tshuab luam ntawv thiab dyeing Hoobkas: cov xim dyeing ntawm lub tshuab luam ntawv thiab dyeing yuav tsum nyob rau hauv qhov kev pom zoo, thiab qhov zoo ntawm daim ntaub nto yog tsim nyog. Tsis tas li ntawd, nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb rau kev sim cov khoom ntawm lub cev:


(1) Kev xav ntawm tes yuav tsum yog mos, tab sis sab nraum zoov kev ua si yuav tsum yog softer dua li sab nraum zoov ntaub.


(2) Weft skew: American standard test standard AstmD3882 dyed fabric xav tau 3 feem pua ​​ntawm qhov dav siv tau zoo, thiab cov ntaub plaid thiab cov ntaub ntawv luam tawm yuav tsum 2 feem pua ​​​​ntawm qhov dav dav los ua cov khoom tsim nyog. (Yog hais tias qhov sib txawv ntawm weft tshaj qhov ntau ntawm Asmeskas tus qauv, nws yuav yooj yim ua rau deformation thiab distortion ntawm dyed ntaub khaub ncaws tom qab ntxuav, thiab plaid daim ntaub luam ntawv daim ntaub tsis ua raws li daim phiaj duab, uas tsis zoo nkauj).


(3) PH tus nqi: American standard test AATCC-81 yuav tsum tau 4.5-7.5 ( tib neeg lub cev yog acidic me ntsis, yog li tus nqi teev nyob rau hauv qhov tsis muaj zog acid ntau haum rau tib neeg lub cev. nws yog alkaline, daim tawv nqaij yuav stimulated thiab qhuav thiab tsis xis nyob).


(4) Tear zog: American standard test AstmD1424 yog raws li cov kev cai tshwj xeeb ntawm ntau hom ntaub (qhov zoo ntawm tearing cuam tshuam rau hnav tsis kam ntawm khaub ncaws).


(5) Lub zog elongation: American standard test ASTMD5034, raws li cov kev cai tshwj xeeb ntawm ntau hom ntaub (qhov zoo ntawm elongation lub zog cuam tshuam rau hnav tsis kam ntawm cov khaub ncaws).


(6) Seam slippage: American standard test ASTMD434, raws li cov kev cai tshwj xeeb ntawm ntau hom ntaub (lub zog ntawm lub seam yuav cuam tshuam qhov slippage ntawm cov khaub ncaws seam).


(7) Shrinkage tus nqi: American standard test AATCC-135 yuav tsum tau 3 feem pua ​​(yog tias tus nqi shrinkage tshaj 3 feem pua, nws yuav cuam tshuam qhov luaj li cas ntawm cov tsoos tsho tom qab ntxuav ob peb zaug).


(8) Lub teeb ceev ceev: American standard test AATCC-16E yuav tsum: cov teeb tshwj xeeb yog irradiated theem 4 rau 20 teev thiab theem 3 rau 40 teev (qhov yuav tsum tau no kuj siab, dawb thiab rhiab xim thiab nylon elastic ntaub yog vim rau lawv tus kheej tsis xws luag thiab tshuab Nws yog ib qho nyuaj rau ua tiav qhov Performance index; nws yog feem ntau resistant rau tshav ntuj, feem ntau hnav sab nraum zoov khaub ncaws nyob rau hauv skiing, mountaineering sab nraum zoov kev ua si los tiv thaiv tshav ntuj raug thiab tsis yooj yim rau hloov xim, nyob rau hauv cov ntaub ntawv ntawm kev txaus ntshai, nws lub qhov muag- ntes khaub ncaws xim, tos kev cawm yog yooj yim).


(9) Xim ceev rau kev txhuam: American standard test AATCC-8 yuav tsum tau: qhuav sib tsoo qib 4, ntub sib tsoo qib 3. (Qhov no yuav tsum tau lub degree ntawm fading ntawm cov khaub ncaws ntaub).


(10) Xim ceev rau dej: American standard test AATCC-107 yuav tsum: discoloration theem 4, staining theem 3. (Nws yuav tsum xeem dhau cov paj rwb, nylon, polyester, ntaub plaub, acrylic, acetone, thiab lwm yam. kom pom qhov discoloration thiab staining los txiav txim qib).


(11) Xim ceev rau lub tshuab ntxhua: American standard test AATCC-61-2A yuav tsum: discoloration theem 4, staining theem 3. (Nws yuav tsum xeem dhau cov paj rwb, nylon, polyester, ntaub plaub, acrylic, acetone, thiab lwm yam. kom pom qhov hloov pauv thiab staining los txiav txim qib).


(12) Xim ceev rau hws: American standard test AATCC-15 yuav tsum: discoloration theem 4, staining theem 3. (Nws yuav tsum xeem dhau cov paj rwb, nylon, polyester, ntaub plaub, acrylic, acetone, thiab lwm yam. kom pom qhov discoloration thiab staining los txiav txim qib).


Lus Cim: AATCC thiab ASTM yog ob qho tib si Asmeskas cov qauv xeem, JIS yog cov qauv xeem Nyij Pooj, ISO yog European qauv qauv, GB yog Suav tus qauv, thiab cov qauv thoob ntiaj teb feem ntau yog Asmeskas cov qauv, thiab lawv yog cov lag luam loj txawv teb chaws Columbia (Colombia)


Thiab THENORTHFACE (sab qaum teb ntawm TNF) thiab lwm yam raws li tus qauv xeem, Suav tus qauv muaj cov kev cai qis rau ntau qhov ntsuas ntsuas, thiab muaj qhov sib txawv loj nrog cov qauv txawv teb chaws.


qhov thib ob:


1. Sab nraum zoov kev ua si fabrics: feem ntau yog ua los ntawm nylon, polyester thiab lwm yam tshuaj fiber ntau fabrics tom qab ua tiav: waterproof, calendering, qhuav thiab ntub txheej, zaj duab xis lamination thiab lwm yam txheej txheem, nrog waterproof, ya raws permeability, breathability, warmth, dej siab kuj. , tiv thaiv UV thiab lwm yam khoom siv. Yuav ua li cas kom ua tiav cov haujlwm no? Kev ua haujlwm yog hais txog cov txheej txheem ntau kauj ruam ntawm kev ua haujlwm tom qab kom paub txog cov khoom lag luam ntawm textile fabrics. Kev ua haujlwm tom qab muaj ntau qhov txuas. Yuav ua li cas rau cov ntaub ntawv sab nraum zoov, peb yuav tsum xub pib los ntawm qhov chaw, qhov chaw yog textile printing thiab dyeing Hoobkas.


1. Textile


(1) Cov xov paj: Qhov zoo ntawm cov xov paj txiav txim siab qhov zoo ntawm cov ntaub, thiab lub zog ntawm cov xov paj txiav txim siab qhov zoo ntawm cov ntaub tearing. (Cov xov tooj suav ntawm cov tshuaj fiber ntau yog sawv cev los ntawm D, uas sawv cev rau tus lej tsis lees paub, uas feem ntau siv thoob ntiaj teb los sawv cev rau qhov zoo ntawm cov tshuaj fibers thiab cov txhob lo lo ntxhuav ntuj; tearing: qhov zoo dua cov xov paj los ntawm kev sim, qhov hnav zoo dua. kev tiv thaiv thiab hnav tsis kam, qhov chaw qus tuaj yeem tiv thaiv tib neeg lub cev zoo dua).


(2) Textile: Nyob rau hauv tus txheej txheem ntawm weaving cov xov paj rau hauv grey ntaub los ntawm textile machinery, kho lub tshuab kom txo tau qhov tsis xws luag xws li crossbar, tawg warp thiab weft, qhov thiab buckle ntawm grey ntaub.


2. luam ntawv thiab dyeing


Thaum dyeing nyob rau hauv lub Hoobkas dyeing, cov xim yuav tsum nyob rau hauv qhov kev pom zoo, thiab yuav tsum tsis muaj yin thiab yang xim. Qhov zoo ntawm daim ntaub nto yog tsim nyog. Tsis tas li ntawd, nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb rau kev sim cov khoom ntawm lub cev:


(1) Kev xav ntawm tes: yuav tsum muaj softness, thiab sab nraum zoov cov ntaub ntawv yog ib qho nyuaj me ntsis. Tam sim no, cov khoom tshiab tau tsim los txhim kho txhais tes, tab sis sab nraum zoov leisure fabrics yog softer dua li sab nraum zoov sports fabrics.


(2) Weft skew: American standard test standard AstmD3882 dyed fabric xav tau 3 feem pua ​​ntawm qhov dav siv tau zoo, thiab cov ntaub plaid thiab cov ntaub ntawv luam tawm yuav tsum 2 feem pua ​​​​ntawm qhov dav dav los ua cov khoom tsim nyog. (Yog hais tias qhov sib txawv ntawm weft tshaj qhov ntau ntawm Asmeskas tus qauv, nws yuav yooj yim ua rau cov khaub ncaws deformed thiab distorted tom qab ntxuav, thiab plaid luam daim ntaub yuav asymmetrical thiab unsightly).


(3) qhov ntom: Neeg Asmeskas tus qauv xeem ASTMD3775 yuav tsum tau hais tias lub warp thiab warft dens yog nyob hauv ± 3 feem pua.


(4) Gram hnyav: American standard test ASTMD3776, uas yuav tsum tau tsim nyog nyob rau hauv ± 3 feem pua.


(5) PH tus nqi: Asmeskas tus qauv xeem AATCC-81 yuav tsum tau 4.5-7.5 ( tib neeg lub cev yog acidic me ntsis, yog li tus nqi teev nyob rau hauv cov kua qaub tsis muaj zog rau tib neeg lub cev. Yog tias nws yog alkaline, daim tawv nqaij yuav yooj yim stimulated, qhuav thiab tsis xis nyob).


(6) Tear zog: American standard test ASTMD1424, raws li cov kev cai tshwj xeeb ntawm ntau hom ntaub (kua muag hauv kilograms KG, phaus LB, thiab Newtons N los qhia qhov ntsuas tus nqi ntawm warp thiab weft ntawm cov ntaub, lub kua muag zoo cuam ​​tshuam rau lub durability ntawm cov khaub ncaws, hnav tsis kam).


(7) Lub zog elongation: American standard test ASTMD5034, raws li cov kev cai ntawm ntau hom ntaub (nrog rau kilograms KG, phaus LB, thiab Newtons N los qhia qhov warp thiab weft xeem qhov tseem ceeb ntawm cov ntaub, lub zog elongation yog zoo los yog phem, uas cuam tshuam rau hnav tsis kam ntawm khaub ncaws durability).


(8) Seam slippage: American standard test ASTMD434, raws li cov kev cai tshwj xeeb ntawm ntau yam ntawm fabrics (tus nqi xeem yog qhia nyob rau hauv MM, lub zog ntawm lub seam yog zoo los tsis, uas cuam tshuam rau slippage ntawm lub garment seam).


(9) Shrinkage tus nqi: American standard test AATCC-135 yuav tsum ± 3 feem pua ​​ntawm cov warp thiab weft kev taw qhia (yog hais tias tus shrinkage npaum li cas tshaj 3 feem pua, nws yuav cuam tshuam qhov luaj li cas ntawm cov tsoos tsho tom qab ntxuav ob peb zaug) .


(10) Lub teeb ceev ceev: American standard test AATCC-16E yuav tsum: cov teeb tshwj xeeb raug rau theem 4 rau 20 teev, thiab theem 3 rau 40 teev (feem ntau tiv taus tshav ntuj, feem ntau hnav khaub ncaws sab nraum zoov los tiv thaiv tshav ntuj thaum sab nraum zoov Cov kev ua si xws li kev caij skiing thiab nce toj siab) Irradiation tsis yooj yim rau kev hloov xim, thaum muaj kev phom sij, nws qhov muag pom cov khaub ncaws xim yog qhov yooj yim rau tos kev cawm).


(11) Xim ceev rau txhuam: American standard test AATCC-8 yuav tsum tau: qhuav sib tsoo qib 4, ntub sib tsoo qib 3. (Qhov no yuav tsum tau lub degree ntawm fading ntawm cov khaub ncaws ntaub).


(12) Xim ceev rau dej: American standard test AATCC-107 yuav tsum: discoloration theem 4, staining theem 3. , acetate thiab lwm yam ntaub thaiv).


(13) Xim ceev rau lub tshuab ntxhua khaub ncaws: American standard test AATCC-61-2A yuav tsum: discoloration theem 4, staining theem 3. , acrylic, acetate thiab lwm yam ntaub thaiv).


(14) Xim ceev rau hws: American standard test AATCC-15 yuav tsum: discoloration theem 4, staining theem 3. , acetate thiab lwm yam ntaub thaiv).


Lus Cim: AATCC thiab ASTM yog ob qho tib si Asmeskas cov qauv xeem, JIS yog cov qauv xeem Nyij Pooj, ISO yog European qauv qauv, GB yog Suav tus qauv, tus qauv thoob ntiaj teb yog tus qauv Asmeskas tshaj plaws, thiab Suav teb tus qauv tsim cov kev xeem yuav tsum tau qis tshaj. ;


Xim ceev: Qhia cov xim ceev ntawm cov ntaub, qhov siab tshaj plaws yog 5, qis tshaj yog 1, thiab American standard grey card yog siv los txiav txim qhov txawv xim.


Cov npe loj txawv teb chaws xws li Columbia (Colombia) thiab TheNorthFace (TNF sab qaum teb) feem ntau siv cov ntaub ntawv saum toj no 14 Asmeskas tus qauv raws li tus qauv xeem. Txawm li cas los xij, qee qhov xim rhiab heev thiab dyes tsis tuaj yeem kov yeej lawv tus kheej qhov tsis xws luag thiab kev teeb meem, thiab qee qhov ntsuas tseem nyuaj lossis ua tsis tau tiav (xws li lub ntiaj teb siab tshaj Destar.


Cov hom qis-kawg thiab nruab nrab-kawg ntawm cov khaub ncaws sab nraum zoov hauv tsev thiab txawv teb chaws tsis muaj siab lossis cov ncauj lus kom ntxaws txog qhov no. Txawm tias cov neeg yuav khoom ntawm cov khoom lag luam no tsis paub meej txog kev ntsuas kev ua tau zoo ntawm lub cev thiab tau yooj yim dag los ntawm cov neeg muab ntaub npuag. Tau kawg, qhov kev xav tau zoo thiab tus nqi kuj muaj ntau yam ua Kev Sib Raug Zoo.

Lwm yam xov xwm

Yam khoom