First part:
What is function? It means the beneficial role played by things or methods. Functional clothing is to maximize the functions of clothing. Similarly, outdoor functional clothing is expensive due to its complex processing technology. Well-known brands such as Columbia (Colombia) ), THENORTHFACE (north of TNF) An outdoor clothing is worth thousands or thousands of dollars, why is it so expensive? After decades of accumulation, interpretation and pursuit of quality, its brand culture has formed the value of the brand; as a professional outdoor brand fabric technician for the past four years, I have come to analyze the quality and functional indicators of outdoor sports apparel fabrics ( Excluding garment work).
There are two kinds of outdoor fabrics, one is clothing made of outdoor sports fabrics. This kind of fabric is mainly used for mountaineering suits, ski suits, and assault jackets. The style is rough, the hand feels stiff, and the product performance requirements are very high. It is suitable for sports functional type It has a protective effect on people (foreign big brands have very strict requirements on this, and must be tested by international authoritative testing institutions such as ITSSGS, and domestic brands do not have such detailed requirements).
The other is clothing made of outdoor leisure fabrics, which is defined as going out of the house to be an outdoor activity. This type of fabric is mainly casual and fashionable, paying attention to fine workmanship, soft hand feeling and comfortable wearing.
How to judge the quality and function of outdoor clothing, its meaning is mainly reflected in the function of textile fabrics, the functions include the following tests: shrinkage, seam slip, elongation strength, tear strength, PH value, water resistance, water pressure resistance, Physical performance indicators such as moisture permeability, rain, light, water stains, sweat stains, friction, machine washing, etc.
The processing technology of these outdoor fabrics is more complicated than that of conventional fabrics, involving many processing links, and has multiple functions such as waterproof, windproof, moisture permeability, water pressure resistance, warmth retention, perspiration, and UV protection. Therefore, it is very important to control the quality in the production process of textile fabrics. The essential.
1. Outdoor sports fabrics: generally made of nylon, polyester and other chemical fiber fabrics after post-processing: waterproof, calendering, dry and wet coating, film lamination and other processes, with waterproof, moisture permeability, breathability, water pressure resistance, UV resistance, etc. Various functional fabrics. Then these functions must first be grasped from the source, which is the textile printing and dyeing factory.
1. Textile
Yarn quality and strength: The quality of the yarn determines the quality of the fabric, and the strength determines the quality of the fabric tearing. (Tear: The better the strength through the test, the better the wear resistance and wear resistance, and the better the protection of the human body in the field environment).
2. The quality of the printing and dyeing factory: the color dyeing of the printing and dyeing factory must be within the acceptable range, and the quality of the cloth surface is qualified. In addition, it is important to test the physical properties:
(1) The hand feel is required to be soft, but outdoor leisure requirements are softer than outdoor sports fabrics.
(2) Weft skew: The American standard test standard AstmD3882 dyed cloth requires 3% of the effective width, and the plaid fabric and printed cloth require 2% of the effective width to be qualified products. (If the weft deviation exceeds the range of the American standard, it will easily lead to the deformation and distortion of the dyed cloth clothing after washing, and the plaid cloth printing cloth is not aligned with the grid shape, which is not beautiful).
(3) PH value: American standard test AATCC-81 requires 4.5-7.5 (the human body is slightly acidic, so the specified value is in the weak acid range suitable for the human body. If it is alkaline, the skin will be stimulated and dry and uncomfortable).
(4) Tear strength: American standard test AstmD1424 is based on the specific requirements of different varieties of fabrics (the quality of tearing affects the wear resistance of clothing).
(5) Elongation strength: American standard test ASTMD5034, according to the specific requirements of different varieties of fabrics (the quality of elongation strength affects the wear resistance of clothing).
(6) Seam slip: American standard test ASTMD434, according to the specific requirements of different varieties of fabrics (the strength of the seam will affect the slippage of the garment seam).
(7) Shrinkage rate: The American standard test AATCC-135 requires 3% (if the shrinkage rate exceeds 3%, it will affect the size of the garment after being washed several times).
(8) Light fastness: American standard test AATCC-16E requirements: specific lamps are irradiated level 4 for 20 hours and level 3 for 40 hours (this requirement is relatively high, white and sensitive colors and nylon elastic cloth are due to their own defects and technology It is difficult to achieve this index; it is mainly resistant to sunlight, generally wearing outdoor clothing in skiing, mountaineering outdoor sports to prevent sunlight exposure and not easy to change color, in case of danger, its eye-catching clothing color, waiting for rescue is convenient).
(9) Color fastness to rubbing: American standard test AATCC-8 requirements: dry grinding grade 4, wet grinding grade 3. (This requires the degree of fading of the clothing fabric).
(10) Color fastness to water: American standard test AATCC-107 requirements: discoloration level 4, staining level 3. (It is required to pass the test of cotton, nylon, polyester, wool, acrylic, acetone, etc. to see the discoloration and staining to judge the grade).
(11) Color fastness to machine washing: American standard test AATCC-61-2A requirements: discoloration level 4, staining level 3. (It is required to pass the test of cotton, nylon, polyester, wool, acrylic, acetone, etc. to see the discoloration and staining to judge the grade).
(12) Color fastness to perspiration: American standard test AATCC-15 requirements: discoloration level 4, staining level 3. (It is required to pass the test of cotton, nylon, polyester, wool, acrylic, acetone, etc. to see the discoloration and staining to judge the grade).
Remarks: AATCC and ASTM are both American test standards, JIS is Japanese test standard, ISO is European test standard, GB is Chinese standard, and the most common international standards are American standards, and they are all big foreign brands Columbia (Colombia)
And THENORTHFACE (the north side of TNF) and so on as the test standard, the Chinese standard has low requirements for many test indicators, and there is a big gap with foreign standards.
the second part:
1. Outdoor sports fabrics: generally made of nylon, polyester and other chemical fiber fabrics after post-processing: waterproof, calendering, dry and wet coating, film lamination and other processes, with waterproof, moisture permeability, breathability, warmth, water pressure resistance, resistance UV and other functional fabrics. How to achieve these functions? Function refers to the multi-step process of post-processing to realize the product performance of textile fabrics. Post-processing involves many links. How to make these outdoor fabrics, we must first start from the source, the source is the textile printing and dyeing factory.
1. Textile
(1) Yarn: The quality of the yarn determines the quality of the fabric, and the strength of the yarn determines the quality of the fabric tearing. (The yarn count of chemical fiber fabrics is represented by D, which represents the denier number, which is often used internationally to represent the fineness of chemical fibers and natural silk; tearing: the better the yarn strength through the test, the better the wear resistance and wear resistance. The wild environment can better protect the human body).
(2) Textile: In the process of weaving the yarn into grey fabric by textile machinery, adjust the machine to reduce the defects such as crossbar, broken warp and weft, hole and buckle of grey fabric.
2. Printing and dyeing
When dyeing in the dyeing factory, the color must be within the acceptable range, and there must be no yin and yang colors. The quality of the cloth surface is qualified. In addition, it is important to test the physical properties:
(1) Hand feel: softness is required, and outdoor sports fabrics are a bit hard. At present, new products have been developed to improve the hand feel, but outdoor leisure fabrics are softer than outdoor sports fabrics.
(2) Weft skew: The American standard test standard AstmD3882 dyed cloth requires 3% of the effective width, and the plaid fabric and printed cloth require 2% of the effective width to be qualified products. (If the weft deviation exceeds the range of the American standard, it will easily cause the clothing to be deformed and distorted after washing, and the plaid printed cloth will be asymmetrical and unsightly).
(3) Density: The American standard test ASTMD3775 requires that the warp and weft density is within ±3%.
(4) Gram weight: American standard test ASTMD3776, which is required to be qualified within ±3%.
(5) PH value: American standard test AATCC-81 requires 4.5-7.5 (the human body is slightly acidic, so the specified value is in the weak acid range suitable for the human body. If it is alkaline, the skin will be easily stimulated, dry and uncomfortable).
(6) Tear strength: American standard test ASTMD1424, according to the specific requirements of different varieties of fabrics (tear in kilograms KG, pounds LB, and Newtons N to indicate the test value of the warp and weft of the fabric, the tearing quality affects the durability of the clothing. wear resistance).
(7) Elongation strength: American standard test ASTMD5034, according to the specific requirements of different varieties of fabrics (with kilograms KG, pounds LB, and Newtons N to indicate the warp and weft test values of the fabric, the elongation strength is good or bad, which affects the wear resistance of clothing durability).
(8) Seam slippage: American standard test ASTMD434, according to the specific requirements of different varieties of fabrics (the test value is expressed in MM, the strength of the seam is good or not, which affects the slippage of the garment seam).
(9) Shrinkage rate: The American standard test AATCC-135 requires ±3% in the warp and weft direction (if the shrinkage rate exceeds 3%, it will affect the size and size of the garment after washing several times).
(10) Light fastness: American standard test AATCC-16E requirements: specific lamps are exposed to level 4 for 20 hours, and level 3 for 40 hours (mainly resistant to sunlight, generally wearing outdoor clothing to prevent sunlight during outdoor sports such as skiing and mountaineering) Irradiation is not easy to change color, in case of danger, its eye-catching clothing color is convenient for waiting for rescue).
(11) Color fastness to rubbing: American standard test AATCC-8 requirements: dry grinding grade 4, wet grinding grade 3. (This requires the degree of fading of the clothing fabric).
(12) Color fastness to water: American standard test AATCC-107 requirements: discoloration level 4, staining level 3. (This requires the discoloration and staining to be judged by the test of cotton, nylon, polyester, wool, acrylic, acetate and other cloth blocks).
(13) Color fastness to machine washing: American standard test AATCC-61-2A requirements: discoloration level 4, staining level 3. (This requires the discoloration and staining to be judged by the test of cotton, nylon, polyester, wool, acrylic, acetate and other cloth blocks).
(14) Color fastness to perspiration: American standard test AATCC-15 requirements: discoloration level 4, staining level 3. (This requires the discoloration and staining to be judged by the test of cotton, nylon, polyester, wool, acrylic, acetate and other cloth blocks).
Remarks: AATCC and ASTM are both American test standards, JIS is Japanese test standard, ISO is European test standard, GB is Chinese standard, the international standard is the most American standard, and the Chinese national standard sets the test requirements to the lowest value;
Color fastness: Indicates the color fastness of the fabric, the highest is 5, the lowest is 1, and the American standard gray card is used to judge the color difference.
Foreign big names such as Columbia (Colombia) and TheNorthFace (TNF north) mainly use the above 14 American standard data as the test standard. However, some color sensitivities and dyes cannot overcome their own defects and technical difficulties, and some indicators are still difficult or impossible to achieve (including the world's most advanced Destar.
The low-end and middle-end brands of outdoor clothing at home and abroad do not have high or detailed requirements for this. Even the fabric buyers of these brands are not fully aware of the physical performance testing requirements and are easily fooled by fabric suppliers. Of course, the quality requirements and the price also have a lot to do Relationship.
